Monday, 28 May 2012

Back in the Land of the Living...

Well here I am again after 2 years of NO BLOGGING! 

I am not going to try and fill you in on those 2 years other than to say they were spent trying to keep our forest scouts employed (just managed), trying to find an investor for our carbon credits project (almost managed) and trying not to lose my mind (hotly debated) - not necessarily in that order.  It really would have made for depressing reading mostly (I know it depressed me just living it!) but now I want to get back out there as things are finally MOVING and we are getting places at long last.  Now the fun begins!

After a few very near misses with other groups, we have signed an agreement with a carbon mangement company in Australia who are sourcing finance for us and partnering us on the technical side during our intense VCS verification process ahead.  And I am so glad the others fell through now!  My contact there is young, bright and very cool.  I have learnt so very much in the year we have been working together.  I now have a green-geek partner in crime at last!  (My husband has to physically leave the room in disgust when we Skype call as he is appalled by how excited we get about below-ground biomass, root shoot ratios and the numerous legal definitions of 'forests' in the various Acts...   Sigh....*)

One of their conditions for finance was that we needed to extend our current 20 year lease to 30 years to meet the international requirements for registering this type of project.  Simple hey...?  So thought we!!!

Our lease for Nyatana is with 3 councils, most of whom have a very basic level of education behind them (certainly no understanding whatsoever of carbon credits).  So, once they hear we have some potential money coming in negotiations hot up and this suddenly becomes a long-winded and incredibly frustrating process.  I must tell you I have attended TWENTY NINE meetings about the extension to get this achieved, over SEVEN months.  A typical meeting goes like this.....


1. Call all 3 councils to set meeting up...
2. Can only reach 2 as signal is bad in the rural areas...
3. After 5 days trying give up and cancel meeting... decide to drive to all councils to book meeting in person...
4. Drive 3 hours to Council 1 and agree time for meeting...
5. Drive further 3 hours on VERY bad dirt roads to get to Council 2... 
6. Councillor not around. Told to wait half an hour until 2pm.
7. Wait until 3 then ask again...
8. Told to go to District Administrator's (DA's) office 30 minutes down the road to see Councillor
9. Drive to DA’s office...
10. Get out and get accosted by 20+ school kids shouting ‘murungu, murungu’ (‘white person, white person’) and trying to touch my hair...  (I know it could do with a brush - but no need to make a scene..)
11. Wade through children and get to DA’s office...
12. Councillor has now returned to his office 30 mins away...
13. Drive back to Council offices, meet Councillor, agree meeting time for next week...
14. Two down, one to go... great!  But too late now to drive to 3rd council before dark, in fact getting anxious as will be driving one of Zim’s worst roads in the dark now to get home...
15. Mutter under breath...
16. Drive as fast as possible on said very bad dirt road to try to reach main road before dark...
17. Hit a sheep (yes really...)
18. Stop the car, try not to look directly at dead sheep....
19. Walk into bush to try and find owner of sheep...
20. Take abuse for running over sheep (that by law should not have been allowed to run freely along the road)
21. Pay owner 4 x what sheep is worth
22. Set off again for main road (definitely not reaching main road before dark now)
23. Have a cry about hitting sheep...
24. Have flat tyre
25. Pull over, climb into back of Cruiser to get spare...
26. Spare is so heavy can barely get it off the back...
27. Spend one hour changing tyre, watched by different crowd of 20+ kids shouting "murungu, murungu..."
28. Now it is really dark.
29. Try not to hit any more sheep
30. Wake up at crack of dawn next morning to drive to Council 3 to book meeting
31. Drive home without further event, looking forward to meeting on Tuesday!
32. On Monday phone all councils - just to CONFIRM meeting for tomorrow...  Excited!
33. 2 councils say they can’t attend...
34. Repeat steps 4 to 32 above..
35. FINALLY have meeting booked for 10 am (14 attendees)...
36. 10 am arrives...
37. 3 of the 14 are on time.
38. 11am arrives... 3 more arrive... YAY!
39. 12.30am... All present – hooray – meeting can start!
40. As the only woman there, get asked to take minutes as usual... feel extremely respected and important (not).
41. Councils start meeting off by saying, they will sign the lease extension (yay!) – IF we agreed to giving them 40% of our income (NO... not even profit... INCOME) – WTF?????????
42. One councillor falls asleep on the desk for entire meeting (one less to contend with I suppose...)
43. Negotiations continue while Abe tries to explain the concept of risk versus reward...
44. Finally they agree to sign the extension after running it through their Councillors at home..

The process above continues ad infinitum with councillors forgetting what they agreed in the previous meeting and creating new demands each time - most recently being: 1 x new Land Cruiser for each council, 1 x satellite internet system each, board room furniture, photocopying machine, 3 laptops and printers each... Sure...  (While we're giving out free vehicles would anyone else like one????)

Anyway, I had my last meeting booked for 10 am last Wednesday morning (after 2 cancellations).  I drive out there to the Council to find out that the councillor is out in the lands with the Minister.  OK, I’ll wait...  He will be back at 12:00. At 12:30 I phone and he tells me to go to the Pumpkin Hotel (not as fairytale-like as it sounds I can assure you) to meet him.  I arrive there, he is not there.  I phone again, he tells me to wait, he will be back by 3pm.  SURE!  I wait.  (I have attached a pic of what was on the floor in reception to welcome guests – a hyena skin – yes), and the Council office loo... cherry on top.

17.30 he finally arrives and signs the extension.  The Chairman who needs to countersign has now gone home so I have to go with the Councillor into the township to the Chairman's house so he can sign.  He signs, but not before reminding me that we promised him a cellphone (did we???)...

And that's how you do business over here!  (And I moaned for all those years in London about having to wears heels and a suit, and the 'difficult' clients I had to deal with!  Ha!)  Fate has a sense of humour that's for sure..
 
Anyway, hopefully our Australian partners will be over for a visit and to conduct their final due diligence in June.  I will update you all again after that... 
 
Fun times.

Wednesday, 3 February 2010

Lightning shows, close encounters of the elephant kind and near-drownings...




Well, where do I start? Feels like December is so far away already!! Well, I’ll start with Savanski’s visit. Sav popped by in mid-December for a visit before Christmas on her way to South Africa. Was great having the little memsahib around. Not sure she has quite got her head around quarry attire yet though.. Zack point blank banned her from his quarry section until she had changed into something more suitable – hotpants and a strappy tummy top appear don’t appear in the dress code for some reason... He made her wear a hard-hat too but drew the line and steel-cap boots luckily for her. Spent a very special night in Nyatana - just Dad and his 2 girls (me and Sav). Took Fussa – the staffie pup we were baby-sitting for her first swim in the river (she was utterly unimpressed) and she spent most of the afternoon furiously digging up the river bed – and even found a half eaten snake, nutritious! At least we know her nose works.

We just all lay in the water while the water rushed by, eating mangos. Was just lovely. Bought me right back to when I was about 4 when we used to bath in the very same river when while my Dad was still building our house on his first marble mine. Did keep one wary eye out for crocodilios but we were fine. (I should have been keeping one wary eye out for other dangerous biting creatures however – but failed... to my detriment! Story to follow..)


Then we went for a long walk over about 17 hundred mountains to find a secret spring that comes out the mountain and feeds into the river. Dad charged on and I had to stop about every hundred metres for breath! I just kept pretending I was stopping to look at the view.. Wowzaz I need to step it up to keep up with all this bush-wacking malarkey! We followed an elephant path all through the hills til we found the spring and also a place where the rocks seep salt which is what the ellies come for. I nearly licked it myself I’d lost so much salt through sweating half my bodyweight (I wish) out on the way. Saw a tree I have never seen before which has flowers that look exactly like maroon orchids! So stunning! What wasn’t so stunning was that I must have picked up a little tick on that walk from the grass... When I got home then next day I found one on the back of my leg which I pulled off. Over the next few days it turned into a huge red lump and then when I was out at the quarry one day I woke up and all my lymph nodes up my thigh and in my groin (sorry!) had swollen up and I had the most ferocious headache. I still just didn’t make the connection – it was only when I was helping Damo cook dinner for the guys that night that it all fell apart and I burst into tears over a chopping board of bacon cos I was so weak I couldn’t even cut the bacon! Yes really! It was a pathetic sight!!! Anyway, drove into Harare the next day to see the doctor (stopped on the road 3 times for a little cry... cos it was hurting my arms to turn... yes really..) and she put me on medication for tickbite fever and also malaria just in case cos the malaria season is so rife at the moment. Talk about an onslaught – the malaria medication is hardcore!! Anyway, I slept for three days and was right as rain afterwards but will never underestimate those little buggers again. Tricksy little fellows!


Then we had Christmas – Damo did a Jamaican ham (very Christmassy!) with rum and spices and I did a leg of lamb. We ate on the veranda outside with lots of champagne and stuffed ourselves to oblivion... Damo got some very exciting presents like a COOLER-BOX for work...(woop-woop!), some flip-flops... LUCKY boy! Ha ha ha...

We left early the next morning for the first leg of our much anticipated ROAD-TRIP! (I have added a map above showing our route and some key points!!!) We left early morning and got to Lake Kariba at lunchtime and spent 3 nights on the houseboat. As usual, Africa was showing off for Damien... we had the most extravagant lightning show and thunderstorm on the second night. Vegas had nothing on us that night! We sat on the top deck of the houseboat with our beers just taking in these lightning forks going across the sky with 10 or 15 forks at a time! Unreal! The flashes were so sudden that it would burn the entire surroundings to your retina and for the next ten seconds you could still see the water and the island in perfect detail!! And it went on for over an hour. The thunder was like nothing I have ever heard – huge, deep earth-quaking rumbles that reverberated around your lungs. Spectacular. We went to bed on the top deck as usual. The top deck has a roof but no sides and we usually make our beds up there and hang up mozzi nets and sleep in the open which is just stunning as you get to wake up to a beautiful sunrise reflecting off the lake and it is much, much cooler than in the bedrooms downstairs. Well it turned out to be MUCH cooler that night! We woke up in a tremendous downpour which, because the boat was at a bit of an angle being moored to an island, rushed down the deck on us like a tidal wave! We were drenched before we even woke up! It is quite a sight seeing people trying to climb out of a wet mosquito net, quickly, half asleep (and naked as the case was for some who shall remain nameless..).


We were similarly spoilt on our last day. We went to visit some friends for a braai who were staying at lodges on the mainland. As we arrived they ushered us in really hastily shushing us all the way and we walked through to see four elephant practically climbing through their lounge windows! They were right up against their veranda and even leaned in and drank some water out their pool! It was the closest I have ever been to elephants in the wild and it was a breath-taking, humbling experience. There was one monster male who I snuck outside and round the back of the house to photograph. He was just eating leaves at a leisurely pace looking straight at us totally unflinchingly. Just this huge unblinking ancient eye. Everyone was just watching them in silence for about half an hour. I got some incredible shots and it jetted me back to my childhood dreams of becoming a National Geographic photographer! Unfortunately when you are behind the lens it forms a kind of imagined barrier between you and anything dangerous you might be taking photos of so you feel totally impervious to the outside world! Damien had to in the end physically pick me up (I was still focusing!) and carry be back inside when they got too close!! Funnily enough it’s only when you see these animals next to human object that you realise their true scale – they are ginormous! It was kind of sad seeing them so close to humans – they must be used to having us around in this area. I have some horrible shots of the male digging in a rubbish bin and then kicking it around in a temper when he didn’t find anything sufficiently satisfying.. We went back to the boat that night (which was moored on the shore) on a high, and then spent the whole night being serenaded by lovesick hippos calling to eachother from either side of our boat – it is such a comforting sound!

Exerpt from Damo:


We arrive expectant of a drunken fun but we didn’t expect to find 4 elephants in their back garden eating their trees, honestly we were standing 3 feet away from the ellies with only a small low fence separating us - AMAZING, I turn to look for Celia but she’s not there and after 30 seconds of frantic searching I find her round the side of the raised area with her camera lense nearly up the huge animal’s backside, that girl is lethal with that thing but she got some exceptional photos and is definitely the designating African trip photographer going forward.”


Bless him. He lies to keep me happy! And I am. : )


Damo also caught his first TWO fish on this trip – one bream and one tigerfish. He was most upset when Dad filleted it up to use for bait! (It was a little tiddler!) Neither my Dad or I caught a thing though so good on him!!

We packed up on the next morning and started early for Zambia. We crossed the Zimbabwe/Zambia border by driving over the Kariba Dam Wall which was a first for me. The water was also higher than I have ever seen it. Our border crossing went smoothly for African standards – they all did on this trip actually! I liked Zambia immediately. It has a wonderful aura of hope around it. It is full of chirpy signs against corruption and various other sins and promoting good behaviour and love your neighbour type stuff. Their citizens seem to be very considerate about all these things! The bush was much thicker than I expected and the way they build their mud huts is different to our Zimbabwean way. We do the circular ring of branches in the ground, then cover with mud and then thatch – theirs are square mostly and the vertical sticks are very visible through the mud so it almost looks like they only ‘plaster’ the inside? Anyway. I liked the place.


We crossed the Zambian/Namibian border a few hours later after crossing through Livingston which had a lot of the South African brand names and shops and seemed a lot richer, probably due to its proximity to the Falls. We passed a mall with Woolworths, Steers, Nandos, Subway, Edgars, etc... I expected the vegetation to change as soon as we crossed the border into Namibia, which of course it didn’t! The Caprivi strip looks much like Vic Falls in terms of vegetation (thick scrubby green bush). We eventually got to our stop-over point (Poppa Falls) at about 9pm. Slightly ratty (they screwed up our booking) and pretty tired, we had a delicious steak and chips rushed out last minute by the kind chef and went to our lodge. This was totally surreal for me! The lodges were proper almost Swiss-style log cabins nestled in a bit of pine forest! All wood on the inside, outside everywhere, furniture – everything! We even had a wooden kettle!! OK, we didn’t.. Damo had a bush wee next to a (imagined) hippo... Dad snored (like a real hippo) all night and before we knew it we were off again on the last leg of our journey to the coast.


The drive was reasonably uneventful and the surroundings gradually turned from think green bush to a bit balder and a bit browner, to very craggy sharp looking red and brown mountains and dry scraggy bush to pure golden sand as we drove into Swakop at about 7pm that night. On our way we passed all sorts of quirky sounding towns – I love the Namibian names – Omaruru, Usakos, Otjiwarongo, Gobabis, Okahanja – there is even a place called Gross Barman! (We’ve all met a few of those hey?!)


Rocked into Swakop and checked into our hotel – a very old, quaint German hotel. We were right in the centre of town which was great cos you could walk everywhere. Pretty rare in Africa! Had a wonderful New Year’s party on the beach. There is a huge rustic wooden beach bar (called Beach Bar funnily enough..) that hosts a party and everyone parks their pick-ups all along the beach and sets up little windbreaks and tents and fires and parties all night that way. It was fabulous! Then at midnight they light a huge (about the height of a three storey building?) bonfire and it’s all a bit dangerous, but fun! It fell over again this year, like it always does! We spent the rest of our trip exploring Swakopmund, shopping for clothes and books (heaven!) and eating enough seafood to satisfy a grown walrus on a daily basis! (Ocean Basket ROCKS!!) Mmmmmm... craaayfish, dribble, dribble.... We also went to see the crystal gallery which houses the largest crystal in the world (taller than Damo, wider than Pavarotti, or should I say than he used to be...). Dad left us after a few days to fly to Cape Town then onto the States to do some special training for his flying in an assimilator they have there (yes, I know, it is starting to sound dodgy – is my Dad in some secret airforce???) The rest was spent with family before we hit the road again for Vic Falls. Zack and I took turns driving and I am not embarrassed to say we had pies and ice-cream for breakfast. (I love you Zack!) We stopped off at Katimo Mulilo in Namibia and hit the Namibia/Botswana border first thing the next morning. We found a fabulous old hollow baobab tree at the Botswana/Zimbabwe border which I hopped into for a picture only to be attached en masse by a whole tribe of matabele ants – and promptly hopped out and hopped around a lot more - Damo has some good shots of me running and screaming and plucking at myself hysterically.. Not the coolest way to act at a border-post.


At last back in Zim and we soon hit Victoria Falls town. Our lodges (thanks Ang!) were just perfect – little self catering lodges set in a huge campsite with a great restaurant (‘In-da-Belly’ – a play on words for the local tribe in those parts – the ‘Ndebele’) and a lovely pool and deck area with satellite TV up on screens in the open bar. Just perfect! We had warthog steak rolls for lunch (I recommend them!) and took a walk to see the bridge in the afternoon which is where they do the bungee jumping from. It was pretty wobbly. I truly don’t know how I ever did that bungy all those years ago. I must have been drugged. It looks downright RECKLESS now! We decided on the bridge that we would definitely like to go rafting so rushed off to book for the next day.


Rafting was superb. It is probably best described in Damo’s words (I have taken an excerpts from one of his emails):

DAMO:

We decided on white water rafting down the Zambezi and I still think Celia is getting over the shock that I agreed to this as I’m far more of a land lover, or more like I stepped on some sea weed when I was 7 and since then I hate getting in to water where I can’t see the bottom (yes, I am a 31 year old man!).


So we climbed down 750 feet through bush, mud and water falls and come out on to the most stunning little beach and mountain area ever. The water was very inviting after the climb down. After going through various drills we set of down the Zambezi with our guide whose nickname was a confidence booster in itself, Titanic!!!!


As we float along nice and easy he talks us through what rapid is up ahead and what grade the rapid is ranging from 1 – 5, and 5 being the strongest/most violent/most powerful/most DANGEROUS (I think you get the picture). First rapid was a breeze - a nice, gentle nerve-settler and then we move closer to rapid number 2 of which there are 3 routes A, B and C - with B being a 5. As he closes his mouth from asking the question - do we want to go hard or soft, there is a banshee style screech from my right “ I WANT TO GO HARD, I WANT TO TOUCH THE BOTTOM”, as I turned to look at my usually angelic fiancé to see her eyes on fire… The rest of the group, in fear of being impaled by her oar, agree - so we’re on, certain death it is.


We fly down and hit the rapid we turns the boat over like you would flip a 10 pence piece, now they do say that time goes very quickly when you’re under water, well it felt like I was trapped under the boat for hours, and to add panic to the situation I can hear the guy doing head count because luckily I was trapped where the seats were so I had some breathing space. Once I’d got my bearings and realised that I hadn’t miraculously grown gills, I had to then figure out how I was not only going to get my rhinoceros sized head under the side of the raft to daylight again, but also do it wearing a life jacket, buoyancy was against me for those couple of minutes.


On the second attempt I was free and in open air again floating down the Zambezi feeling very relieved, a little bit emotional but glad to be breathing, but once again the banshee returned with a different screech that resembled my name… At least I know she cares about me and she also did a sterling job of scaring any surrounding wildlife.


The whole rafting experience was the best activity I’ve ever done, there were pockets where we could jump out and float with the boat, there were other areas that we could get out and swim ahead of the raft and also jump in off the cliffs, it only dawns on you after a while that crocodiles live in that river but I figured my luck was in. After a very fun but tiring trip you’re then hit with the 750 foot climb back to the top. Holy Moses that was a killer and I’m sure the only thing that kept me from throwing myself off the mountain and ending it all was the promise of cold beer at the top.”


Needless to say it was pretty rough and while I love water and am a pretty strong swimmer, even I had some panicky episodes. Damo was a true trooper considering he is not as fond of water as most. And the banshee thing is not an exaggeration – I thought he had drowned cos I couldn’t see him for ages! I was nearly sick down my lifejacket.. Anyway, the walk out of the gorge was the worst – about half an hour solid uphill windy stairs cut out of the rock. A cold coke has never tasted so nice when we got to the top. I mean NEVER! We hit the casino that night at The Kingdom hotel and I won LOADS (OK, $60....) and the boys were pretty much begging me to go home they were so tired.. (Yes you were...). We went to The Boma restaurant the next night which I just LOVED! It is on the grounds of the hotel I used to audit about 10 years ago – the Victoria Falls Safari Lodge. It is an African themed restaurant and a full on experience, not just a meal. When you arrive they tie traditional kangas (African wraps) around you and paint some traditional marks on your face and in you go to this huge open air thatched area. They come round with special bowls to wash your hands before you eat as it done traditionally then they offer some Zimbabwean brew – Chibuku – in a tin cup (with traditional floaty bits) and the evening begins! The main mean is a huge buffet with meat being cooked on a braai on request at the front – the normal ones, plus warthog, kudu, eland, tilapia etc. – whatever you like. You can also try kapenta (tiny dried fish) and mopani worms (yes those big fat white ones...YU-UM!!). About an hour in some amazing Ndebele dancers do a show and towards the end of the evening a group of African drummers does a show then everyone gets their own African drum and the main man teaches you all some songs and everyone plays along... It was less excrutiating than it sounds as everyone is three sheets to the wind by then and REALLY joins in! Even me... stick-in-the-mud-Smit. Throughout the meal you also get visited by face-painters and traditional story-tellers and afterwards you can have your fortune told by a proper witchdoctor outside who throws the bones... I was too scared.. We had our faces painted – Zack got some dog paw prints which was a coincidence as that is our logo at the quarry, I got a gecko, which wasn’t a coincidence about anything, and Damo, poor Damo - Damo got Mickey Mouse on acid! We think it was supposed to be a jackal but it was pretty terrifying – he could make it growl by moving his eyebrows up and down. Very amusing!


All that was really left after that was the drive home which we did via Bulawayo. We passed Heany Junction on the way which is a small Railway station with a lone house built next to it, and in that house I was actually born – my Dad delivered me there! It was quite strange – I felt like I should know it immediately but I didn’t. Was nice to see it though, so I can picture it now. Special!


Other than that it has been business as usual since getting back. Oh, I had my 30th... didn’t wake up with wrinkles or a moustache so I think we are doing OK with our thirties so far... Just had a small tea party at the house (OK - champagne party) while I wait for Dad to get home so we can have a proper celebration. (I’m sure he will be able to fit the rally car on the plane somehow...)


We are making good progress with our carbon credits and we have a trading house in London looking for buyers on our behalf. The great news is that they were so impressed with our documentation that they have asked us to help them do the documentation for some of their other projects in the future. BONUS!! We’ve not put anything in writing yet but it was good for our little Zimbabwean egos to see that we are doing a good job – enough to impress Europe anyway. I will keep you all informed. I am also spending some time out at Nyatana in the next few weeks so will be able to give you an update as to our movements on the ground there.

Anyway, that’s about it for now – it is Damo’s birthday on the 9th everyone – send him kisses and prezzies! Oh and our shipping arrives tomorrow hopefully! (Have a said this in every blog???) After 4 months this could be it – I can actually wear a different pair of jeans!! And Damo can start making soufflés again – YYAAAAAYYYYYY!!!!!!!


Until next month...

Oooops... just realised I forgot the best news of all – Damien got his work permit – ON CHRISTMAS EVE!! Was very last much by the skin of our teeth before our trip and he had to rush off at the last minute at get a chest X-ray for TB at the local hospital – I watched him visibly blanche when they asked him to do this. He was very quiet all the way there but I (and I think he..) was pleasantly surprised – everything was very clean and efficient. Whew!

Tuesday, 1 December 2009

Week from hell (and I'm not only talking about the heat)

In a state of mild exhaustion after a mad week or so. I am sitting in the open chalet on the mine watching Sky News and feeling very (nasty and mean and) smug as I watch the weather report – minus 3 degrees – you poor souls!!!! (Never mind the fact that it is 7.20am and I am already shiny with sweat....)

I have spent the last week or so stroking egos of various sizes. (Sheesh – just another day in the Smit family you say...? No – hunters, hunters, hunters!) We had some Namibian hunter friends of Dad's up to do some problem animal control work in our area whom I had to set up camp for and cater for. (Problem Animal Control (PAC) is where animals who are a menace to the disadvantages local communities (such as aggressive crocodiles), or who are badly injured for example, are put on a list for humane culling by professional hunters. This type of hunting is not for trophies and all the skins/meat etc goes to the local communities.) I then had some clients from Europe to show around the mine in my Dad’s absence.

My last week has been as follows:

Saturday – Pick up hired goods from hire company for hunt in torrential rain. Complain. Dry out. Plan journey for Sunday.

Sunday – Wake up at 5, pack truck, manoeuvre tarpaulin over truck with maximum struggle and minimum success, pack to go. Wait. Wait some more. Told hunters are delayed. Complain more.
Monday – Wake up at 5, hit the road to go and set up camp 3 hours away, have fight with tarpaulin mid-journey, tarpaulin wins. Have allergic reaction to some chemical/powder (results similar to battery acid I tell you) that was on tarpaulin when we had the fight... face maroons, lips swell, can’t wash face as cooler-box with water packed at the bottom of the pile on the back of truck. Reach the council 2 hours away, see tap outside, sprint to wash face, water brown, close mouth to avoid cholera, viciously wipe off brown water with shirt, forget shirt was fighting with tarpaulin too, process repeats itself. Complain more loudly. Arrive at camp (beautiful!), mood improves as amazing Nyatana workers (from the passing out parade fame!) put up tents and refuse to let me help. 40 degrees though, face still burning. Check out the ablutions. Ablutions consist of a long-drop toilet (basically a deep hole in the ground which would be covered up after use) enclosed by a little room made of reeds. Then there was a little stand with a toilet seat on the top balanced (poorly) over the hole. A very tall stand I may add – upon testing my feet didn’t reach the ground and I was terrified some accident would befall me and I would have to be rescued from the loo-hole covered in you-know-what so I gave that a miss. Yikes! The shower room was also made of reeds gathered from the river and consisted of a bucket on a rope slung over a tree with a shower nozzle and tap sticking out the side. Best shower ever as you can see the sky! The Nyatana guys did a wonderful job of a little thatched kitchen are along with a table all made from branches, reeds and thatch. Very homely! 1pm, camp set-up finished, wait for hunters to arrive, 4pm, wait for hunters to arrive. 7pm, wait for hunters to arrive. 10pm stop waiting for hunters to arrive, go to bed. Sharing tent with 2 menfolk so try to undress under sheet, manage to get hundreds of thorns hitch-hiking on my jeans stuck on my sheet. Complain a bit more.

Tuesday – Hunters arrive at 1am! Ignore and sleep through. Wake up at half four to get the fire going for hunters’ coffee. Camp now has 17 men including Nyatana workers... and me. Hunters wake up and suddenly realise that there is a WOMAN in camp! OH. MY. GOD. Pack the trucks and go home – a woman! For God’s sake! All 7 hunters’ noses massively out of joint. They had cleary planned five days of no showering, eating no vegetables, wearing dirty sock, swearing, spitting, drinking and generally acting like animals and here I was spoiling all of it! Much stomping of tantrummy feet! Tried to ignore cross hunter looks (made worse by the way they were gripping their guns!) and had a look at what food they bought with them so I could plan some meals. (As our lodges are still being built they brought all their own food/tents etc.) What a mistake. No offence to all you organised men out there (all 4 of you) but MEN CANNOT PACK. I was faced with a box the size of a suitcase with chilli sauce and spices and braai spice alone, then a small box with some baked beans, rice and some rusks, 4800 beers and about 300 lamb chops. That’s it! Loo paper clearly wasn’t a priority but then again they packed NO vegetables, maybe that’s why. And nothing to cook in. Maybe they expected me to cook Neanderthal style with a stick over a fire? Turns out that was not far from the truth in the end. Hunters went out after coffee tracking an injured elephant for the whole day during which I tried to concoct 10 different ways to cook lamb chops over the next 5 days. Thrilling. Got bored of that. Read a bit in the tent. Inside tent temperature reached about 1148 degrees, gave up when book got too soggy from sweat to read. Went for a walk. Turned back after 3 and a quarter minutes due to impending heatstroke. Tried some fruit growing on a bush. Didn’t die. Thought about how I couldn’t WAIT to cook over a nice hot fire! Hunters get back all buoyed full of huntery testosterone after a successful hunt, bellowing for dinner. Well what a feast I prepared... lamb chops, rice and beans... wow, I was so proud! Knew I would have to retire early in shame. Not before telling the rudest jokes I knew round the fire over drinks which broke the ‘woman-in-camp’ ice and lightest the atmosphere considerably! Tried to shower avoiding the gaoss in the reeds, funnily enough positioned almost perfectly round my rude bits. AMAZING shower, looking up at the stars, nice breeze with bush-smells floating in, cicada sounds. Made up for everything.
Wednesday – (STOP READING NOW IF YOU ARE SQUEAMISH ABOUT HUNTING!) Go to see how the elephants are skinned and how the meat is distributed to the local communities. More serious mood now. Worried I might shame myself by bursting into oestrogen-fuelled tears at the sight of the fallen ellies. Was actually fine, the hunt was done very quickly humanely and the fact that the communities were benefiting (some haven’t eaten meat for more than a year) made it a lot easier to bear, circle of life and all that. They were very respectful and followed their traditional rights and blessings every bit was put to use. The female was a very old lady who had stepped on a landmine a year or so before so her foot was half-blown off and pretty rotten. This meant she wasn’t able to get her food the normal way so was raiding villagers’ crops (their only source of food) which was much easier! She was also apparently VERY cheeky because of the pain she was in and was attacking local villagers on a daily basis, including children. The skinning began and I was incredibly impressed by the skill of the locals. I won’t go into too much detail as I know this is a touchy subject for many but it was actually a very natural thing to watch, something these tribes would have been doing for centuries. Moving on, spent hot 5 hours waiting for the meat to be distributed correctly then returned with the hunters to the camp for lunch. Temperatures are pushing 2000 degrees surely. Cook lunch over the fire (lamb chops – how did you guess?). Am so thoroughly sunburnt and the fire is bellowing heat at me like some kind of volcanic furnace. I can tell you the fire was not that bloody hot at 4.30am when I was trying to boil water quickly! The hairs are singing off my forearms and I am so burnt and hot and purple in the face that I can’t actually figure out whether it is the sun or the fire that is singeing my little arm hairs to white little curly balls! Serve lunch then begin immediately on dinner for later so I can return to the mine that afternoon. Bolognese made with braai spice, salt and vinegar spice and chutney due to absence of any other bolognesy-type ingredients... yum I know!! Get into the car and for the first time in 3 days see my face which is plum-coloured by now. I am furious with myself for letting myself get my face burned but it calms down after an hour or so of driving with the window open and is actually now just a mauvish colour. Whack on the ipod and speed all the way to the mine singing at the top of my lungs, scaring cyclists and cattle on the side of the road. Arrive at the mine 2 hours later hoarse, burnt to a crisp and FILTHY with Damien wondering what the hell I have been doing with myself and whether I chased down the elephants with my bare hands! Find out Zack has malaria (better now!) so have last minute rush trying to arrange someone else in town to help me ferry clients around tomorrow. Sleep like a baby under my lovely mozzi net and thorn-less sheets. Snore thoroughly.
Thursday – Drive 2 hours to home in Harare. Unpack. Go back out to do grocery shopping for clients for the next day or so. Catering again – YAY! Make sure there are NO lamb chops on the menu. Rush home, shower, pick up clients for dinner. Have lovely dinner at Amanzi Restaurant and managed to keep my eyes open all night (with great effort). Dropped them all off and got home to pack for the next night at the quarry. Still sunburnt.

Friday – Pick up clients at 7.30Aam. Drive 2 hours to the mine. Making conversation considerable difficult as only 2 speak English and the rest just talk to themselves in Portuguese. Try to keep yawning to a minimum (once every 3 minutes). Nod and smile at all the talk about how big the one client’s house is, the fact that it has an elevator, the fact that he has saved $100K for each of his kids to do what they like with, as well as a flat each. Start wondering what I would do with $100 grand. Stop after a few minutes due to depression brought on by thoughts of what one could be doing rather than listening to ‘look how rich I am stories’. (OK, and I am a teensy bit jealous of the elevator...)
Arrive at quarry, feed and water clients. Realise they are drinking beer at a rate far faster than my little stash of beer will allow. Panic. They get a tour of the quarry and seem happy enough. Go and pick up our entertainment for the evening. We have an incredible traditional dance group that perform for us from our local junior school. I squash 18 children and 4 adults (yes really!) into the back of my truck and drive at snail’s pace up to our camp where they will perform later. Pick up clients and take them up to the camp. Dancers go done very well. I certainly get goose-bumps. They are all dressed in traditional gear, the boys on the drums and with headgear with feathers in, the girls with shakers on their legs. It really was stunning and what a professional performance! Was very proud! Cooked (again) and sat round the fire yo-yoing between the fridge and thirsty clients and left at the end of the evening to go and sleep down at the quarry. Alan, who was helping me transport the clients slept on the roof-rack of our Patrol under the stars which thoroughly amused the clients! Fell into bed. Still sunburnt.
Saturday – Cook breakfast. (Complain under my breath.) Swear I will not cook a morsel for anyone for at least a month. Hurry clients into car so we can rush them to the airport in Harare. Another 2 hour drive. MORE money talk. Try to stop clients taking pictures of every local we see on the road and a couple of government officials we pass on the road! Drop clients at airport, heave a sigh of relief and whizz out of the airport carpark only to scratch my Dad’s car on the side of the ticket booth in my haste to escape. Fight the urge to cry. Drive slowly home. Unpack. Crawl into bed for a sleep. Still sunburnt.
ANYWAY! I am much rested now and feeling more spritely. Looking forward to the Christmas period. Damien and I are going to spend a few days in Victoria Falls and we are all off to Lake Kariba for five days over New Year so that will be great. The quarry will close from the 19th of Dec to the 11th of Jan so will be lovely to have Damien around! Will give you another update before then I’m sure. Take care everyone! And please send news.x Oh, and id I mention we now have a crocodile in our swimming pool. Don't ask.

PS: I have added some photos of the passing out parade - I was having trouble uploading last month. One of the guys marching, one of the play about arresting poachers, one of the river, and some cow legs!


DAMIEN’S LATEST:

I’ve slipped in to African life pretty easily so far which has been a nice surprise, I’m going to be based at the mine until after Xmas which is not a bad thing as my role is slowly starting to get more interesting.

Not sure if you got my last update but I’m now in charge of getting the community projects up and running again, these projects are run through a trust fund and the money can only be invested in to projects that will generate income for the community or something that is for the good of the community (they were stopped during the political trouble last year), some of the projects are:

· Setting up the quarry medical centre for the workers and expecting or new mothers.
· Brick making project – the bricks are bought by the mine off the community at a small profit, they can also sell the bricks to surrounding businesses
· Gum tree seedlings – We cultivate the seedlings and donate them to the community to plant, once they have grown to a certain level we purchase the trees from the community as the wood is strong and is used for putting the granite blocks on when trucking it across the country
· Organising the refurbishment and building of the workers compound
· Ensuring the recent donation of mosquito nets are distributed to the workers and their families that live in the local community

It’s not all been work though, the weekends have been fairly social as there is usually something going in Harare or there is some sort of BBQ/party to attend.
We went to a gun fair a couple of weeks ago, where you could shoot anything from a 500 rifle to a hunting bow and arrow, I opted to play safe and had a go shooting a 9mm pistol, you got 8 bullets to shoot at 4 targets, of which 1 was moving. Now I took in to account my level of experience with fire arms and also made it clear to guys running the stall that this was the first time shooting a pistol but I still don’t think it softened the embarrassment of Celia going after me and completely beating my score or the fact that 12 year old boy who went after her also kicked my backside (what a man Damo, what a man).
I’ve actually learnt to drive within the space of 2 weeks and I’m now the designated beer-fetcher from the local bottle store, which is an experience in itself I tell you! There are about 3 buildings in this one settlement and they still make sure one of them sells alcohol!
I’ve found a local football team in Harare to start getting involved in and went along to watch them on Saturday playing in their 5th cup final of this year, so the danger signs should have been blaringly obvious but surely the standard in Zimbabwe wasn’t going to be too high? I couldn’t have been more wrong as the team has 1 ex-international, 4 ex-Zimbabwean premier league players and also a player who came back to Zim after playing with Luton Town for a couple of seasons. They were pretty good to say the least and fortunately for me they have a B team so there still might be hope...
The only big issue is that our shipping was supposed to have arrived about 3 weeks ago, so either all our belongings are sitting at the bottom of the ocean or there are a few locals who now have an extensive DVD collection and are running around in some very camp white canvass trainers...

Friday, 6 November 2009

Nyatana Passing Out Parade and other October news...

Hi everyone! Hope you are all getting on OK and getting used to winter again... boo! We had our first rains in Harare yesterday and I went for a run on our land in the rain which was amazing... for about 10 minutes, then it turned into a bit of a soggy, itchy affair because of all the long, wet grass! Even saw a sodden little grey bunny which is about the extent of wildlife you find in Harare..

We have had a busy few weeks! I have been busying myself finishing of the FINAL (yeah right) prospectus so we can start selling these darn carbon credits. Work has been on and off as we get a couple of power-cuts a day and I have had a few white knuckled moments where I haven’t noticed and my battery’s gone flat... holy Moses! Anyway, I think that is done now. I have also put together one for our Mozambique project which we are just waiting for the lease agreement on. It is called Chipembere which means ‘rhino’ in the local language. The Mozambican Project has issues we haven’t faced on the Nyatana Project in Zimbabwe. For one, deforestation is much more of an issue for them because of the extreme weather they get with the cyclones etc – it is a huge factor in the extent of flooding that they experience. If we can get the trees back in and improve the soils the communities will experience much fewer of the effects of the flooding. The other factor is the poaching... at Nyatana it is small-scale poaching of small to medium animals for food by locals using mainly home-made snares and traps (horrible enough as it is). In Mozambique, however, it is a far slicker operation and the poachers are well-equipped – and well-armed! They are after bigger game such as elephants, for money. So it is pretty evident that this project is going to need a lot more man-power and investment to be able to contain this larger scale poaching.

Anyway, back to Nyatana... As you know we have been training men from the local communities as Forest Scouts. This involves learning about tracking, wildlife, plant species, bush skills, anti-poaching patrolling and all the bush skills needed to see off poachers, illegal fisherman doing netting, illegal gold-panners and to ensure people are not coming onto the land to cut down trees or start fires. Last Friday thirty of them finished their training and we held a passing out parade for them at Nyatana so the locals could celebrate and they could receive their certificates. They would also be able to show everyone a bit of their drill-work (they were trained by an ex-SAS gentleman.... ahem...).

It was quite something to organise! First we had to arrange invitations for everyone... no mean feat considering there is no postal service, phone lines, mobile signal or email in this area at all! Nyatana land falls under the jurisdiction of no less than three councils so the relevant councillors, MPs, Heads of Police etc had to be invited for each Council then the Chiefs and Village Heads (and wives.s.s.s.s.s.s....!) from the 6 villages we work with. From Harare we had to invite the people we have been dealing with at the conservation organisations (CAMPFIRE and National Parks) and various Ministers who have jurisdiction with regards the environment or conservation. We also had all the workers at Nyatana, and of course the 30 guys who were passing out (as in graduation... not fainting... though how they didn’t pass out from the heat in their overalls I don’t know!). So we had 80-90 mouths to feed and butts to seat.

Food was the next problem. We had to bring most of it in from Harare including drinking/cooking water and hundreds of beers! They had also organised vast quantities of their traditional beer – Scuds! We had to arrange a cow to be slaughtered to feed everyone. Then we had to try and find big enough pots to cook the beef stew in and also the relish and sadza (staple food made of maize meal). I don’t think I have ever bought so many onions and tomatoes in one go – or ever will! I think I bought 200 tomatoes! We were lucky enough to be lent a truly gargantuan pot – practically a bath tub from the local mission hospital along with some benches and plates and bits and pieces. The rest I had to hire from Harare – tables, chairs, glasses, plates, cutlery etc. This came out to Nyatana on the back of a three tonne lorry, miraculously intact! The cow was butchered and cut up and put into a stew the night before the party. All the gory bits from the cow like the head and the stomach tail and all that funny business was used too in a separate ‘special’ stew – nothing was wasted. Yum? Hhmmmm... The hind legs were saved for braai (BBQ) meat . Not what I expected when I walked into the kitchen – two massive cow legs hanging up from the ceiling with their socks still on! All the food was cooked on fires outside and seemed to go off without a hitch.

We had cleared an area next to our camp and put out the chairs etc. There was a slight issue regarding the removal of a puff adder that had taken up residence under a tree root a few metres away but on the morning of the parade we found his skin – completely intact, which he must have been shedding in his little nook under the root - but he had disappeared. The guys also erected some make-shift benches out of the ceiling poles we have ready to build our A-frame lodges with.

People started arriving at about 11.00 and put us to shame in our shorts and slip-slops... all dressed to the nines for the occasion - the chiefs particularly so! One had an ancient pith helmet on and they all had a smart jacket with various badges on to show their status. About 12.30 the ceremony began. It was very hot and I learnt a lesson here... make sure you seat people in the shade next time! It was baking down. Lots of speeches by various important people then onto the main event... I haven’t had goose-bumps like that for years! These scouts (up to now out of sight) came jogging down the hill from behind a massive baobab tree 30 deep voices singing in harmonies in Shona. It was achingly beautiful and I forgot for a few moments that I was chief photographer! You have never seen a group of prouder more upright men in your lives! I felt so privileged to be part of that day. They did some amazing drills, and then each got presented with certificates (which I designed... I knew all that PowerPoint work would come in handy some day!!!). Those who excelled were also presented with watches.

The icing on the cake was a selection of plays performed in Shona to entertain everyone. These were done both by a couple of forest scout guys and also by a troupe who work on my Dad’s mine led by ‘Happy Chicken’ the director’s nickname) who did educational plays about the forests and conservation to the villages when we first did our road-shows explaining our project and getting the Chiefs’ go ahead. For sure these showed me that language and culture are really not barriers – they were HILARIOUS! There was lots of over the top fight scenes with poachers and violet gold panners and it really broke the ice with all the audience! I did take my photos discretely as the last time Happy Chicken did a play of this nature my brother filmed it on his little camera and was promptly asked for money for ‘filming rights’ by Happy Chicken who had already been paid ‘acting fees’ and director’s fees’! And this is from a drama troupe in the middle of the bush with very little access to media of any source – amazing!

Then it was time for food! I ran around like a woman possessed fetching more (and then MORE) meat for greedy... I mean HUNGRY... VIPs who thought the stew might not be quite MEATY enough... (it was a whole cow for crying out loud!). While it all started off in a pretty civilised fashion it did turn into a bit of a bun-fight by the end... You will be surprised how quickly an entire cow can disappear before your very eyes! Then we cleared up (clearing up after 100 gives ‘clearing the table’ a whole new meaning I can tell you! I’m just glad I won’t be the one washing those Rooneys’ table-cloths!) At last, at about 4pm while everyone else has full tummies and are four sheets to the wind, I crack open my first beer... much to the consternation and wide-eyed shock of the local chiefs... a woman – DRINKING BEER!!! Quell horreure!! Well, you can’t win them all...

That night we sat under a baobab tree to watch the flowers open. They only boom at a certain time of year and only at night. They usually open from a round pod the size of my fist to fully open in 15 minutes so you can see the unfurling of the petals with the naked eye. Well it wasn’t exactly 15 minutes this time.. it dragged and dragged, probably because of how full the moon was, so Damien, Zack (my brother) and I went down into the white sandy beach of the dry river bed and lay out there for the rest of the night. Bliss!

Damien has also had an exciting few weeks – he has had his first African rainstorm and has started driving lessons with the guys at the quarry. He is now the designated driver when they drive round the quarry or down to the bottle store after work down the dirt roads to buy beer. I think he is LOVING it! What a way to learn... I on the other hand have negative patience a screamed ‘BRAAAAAAAAAAAKKEE!’ like a banshee in the throes of death about 8 seconds into our first drive together... I practically hand my feet on the dashboard I was bracing so hard! I think I’ll leave the teaching to the men if I want to keep hold of my diamond for the future...! I think he also has more to sink his teeth into at work as well which is good. He also shot his first handgun and a fair held at the local shooting range! I will let Damo tell you more himself as he is going to appear as ‘guest speaker’ on this blog on a frequent basis from now on... His first entry written a week ago or so is below... more to come!

DAMIEN: 28 October 2009


“So moving in to week 4 of African life and so far so good, I'm still based at the mine and will be until the new year, but sporadically going out to the project when I can.
The volume of work on the project has really picked up for Celia, she's been giving the responsibility of co-ordinating the passing out parade for the forest rangers (not sure if that's official title but it sounds cool) but given the fact she is disturbingly organised I don't think it will be too much hassle (she will beg to differ on that point), in all fairness it’s a lot of pressure because all the local MP’s, councillors and heads of the forestry commission will be present but she seems to be coping.

Celia has really been grafting to get the prospectus ready so she can start concentrating on the marketing and selling of the credits to businesses in Europe, it’s been a frustrating time for her due to various hold ups but I think now she will start to see all her hard work pay off.
It’s been a strange week or two as Celia has been based in Harare for most of the time and I've been at the quarry, so really looking forward to going out to project together tomorrow for a couple of nights, I’ve been told that for the party the local brew is on the menu and lucky old me is being given the opportunity to sample some of this amber nectar, something tells me that once again I’ll have another embarrassing drunken story to relay next week.

The rainy season is heading this way and I got the first taster on Monday, and holy Mary, Jesus and his disciples - it was impressive, even coming from the wettest country in the world I've never seen anything like it, within literally 15 minutes the place was completely flooded but apparently it was only a passing shower, usually it last for 3 days (can't wait).

The role I'm doing at the mine is still interesting but can be a little frustrating due to some days not having anything to do for hours on end but gradually my tasks are increasing. Today I was made stationary monitor(!!!!! )which was a great privilege and shows that the management teams level of faith in my abilities is increasing even though they are still reeling from the fact I don't drive and my knowledge of the mechanical workings of any machinery is not normal for any real man!!!! So what if my fiancé can change a fan belt, she knows what a cam-shaft is and used to be a rally driver, I have plenty of skills as well!!! I bake a fantastic cheese, potato and asparagus flan, no one gets it as light and fluffy as me!!

On a serious note (for once) my duties are going to increase dramatically over the next week or two, a lot of projects that the mine had set up were stopped during the last elections due to various expected difficulties but I’ve been given the responsibility of starting things up again, so I’m now heading up Quenya Community Trust Project. The quarry pays a set amount each month into a trust fund, the money can only be used by the community to invest in projects to generate income.


Current projects:


- Brick making machinery
- Gum tree plantation

Projects pending:

- Tailoring workshop – we need to buy the machinery and cloth, so the locals can make work overalls and sell them to the surrounding mines and other businesses
- Grinding mill – to make oils and flour and maize meal


I’ve also been put in charge of setting up the medical centre again, this will provide medical advice and essential medical treatment to the mine workers and the community, such as paediatric care. I need to employ a state registered nurse and import all the much needed medical supplies to run the operation (Sam, if you’re reading this, this could be your first role in the medical world...)

It looks like I’ve been appointed head coach for one of the quarry/local football teams, the vetting process wasn’t exactly the norm for such prestigious position, I brought the team two footballs as the one they had lacked the ability of containing air for more than 60 seconds and now I’m running the operation!!

I can’t wait to see the disappointment on their faces when the fat white Englishman is throwing up in the middle of the pitch after running for 5 minutes and the fact he couldn’t hit a buffalo’s backside with a shovel, I’ll keep you posted on our rise to the top of the African football world.
Celia has accidently found her new calling as a tour guide in Zimbabwe, it happened whilst on our way to Lake Chivero, basically the alleged, and I quote “ it’s about a 20/25 minute drive out of Harare” journey ending up being about a 200 mile 5 hour round trip to nowhere but at least the scenery was pretty just a shame we never made it to lake to cool off in the sweltering heat.
It’s going to be a busy but exceptionally exciting couple of weeks, I’m sure we’ll have plenty to report in the next update.”

Pics to follow everyone... having trouble with the uploader right now. Go well!

Thursday, 15 October 2009










Good morning world! We’re baaaa-aack...! How nice it is to be writing to you from AFRICA! I am sitting writing this under an open thatched rondavel on my Dad’s quarry in Mutoko (about 2 hours out of Harare) with a breeze blowing through and the sounds of the quarry in the background and the smell of dust and engine oil in the air. Yum!





We have been here a week now and settling into the heat and the new pace of life. The flight was sooooo long! 7 hours to Abu Dhabi, 3 hour stop-over, 8 hours to Joburg, 5 hour stop-over then 2 hours to Zim. We were extremely lucky with our luggage as we were about 20kg overweight between us and we weren’t charged by either airline. No delays, nothing! However, I did wake up on my first morning in Zim feeling like death and ended up at the doctors in the afternoon. Tonsillitis and ear infection on my first day! God really does have a sense of humour...




Anyway we are up and running now and have been based on the quarry since Monday while we do the finishing touches on the final prospectus before we start approaching potential contacts to start selling our carbon credits. Nyatana (our project site) is about 2 hours from here so it is a good base for us to commute back and forward as we need to. It is also set up with email and a generator etc so is far more comfortable in the meantime. I will be taking our first trip down to Nyatana tomorrow. We have a number of locals doing a 2 week course on anti-poaching, tracking and bush skills in preparation for them joining our team of Forest Rangers. I will be dropping some food out there for them for the duration. We will be having a passing out parade on the 30th of October where we will invite all of the local officials and some key environmental specialists to celebrate their ‘graduation’. This will probably entail a spit-roast of some sort (probably goat!) and lots of beer! We want to get everyone involved from the start so everyone feels part of the project. Big party African-style! (“Dindindi....!”) : )




For the next couple of months, we are staying in some beautiful lodges my Dad built on the top of a kopje behind his quarry. They have a fantastic view and we have started a vegetable and herb garden here to try and be as self-sufficient as possible. It is proving difficult as the goats eat all the herbs and the monkeys eat all the veggies and fruit! My Dad has planted an orchard at the back of our camp (mangos, guavas, mulberries, apples, limes and a cashew nut tree!) and it has been monkey heaven! I don’t hold much hope for my new little veggie garden... I also bought a hanging basket of flowers for outside our lodge and they lasted 1 day before being noshed by locusts! Sheesh...




Damien is helping out on the quarry temporarily until we start getting some money in from the credits which will enable us to start on many of the projects that are on pause at Nyatana while waiting for funds. He has taken to quarry life like a fish in water (or should I say like a baboon in a tree...?)! His working day starts at 7am and he walks the 6km (+/-4 miles) from our lodges to the actual quarry offices every morning leaving at 5.45am! He is trying to keep fit but all of the local quarry workers are outraged because I drive down at about 8am and they think I am refusing to drop him and making him walk!!! That is hardly the way things work in the Shona culture...! Ha ha! Otherwise he is really getting stuck in and getting filthy which is a great start. He is attacking this all with such gusto – it is great to watch. It is pretty hot here – about 35 degrees at the moment but it is already baking by 7am. Their working day is planned accordingly and so they start at 7am and have lunch at 11am then finish at 4.30pm which is weird but nice as we have more free time at night. It is also pretty dusty and LOUD with all the blasting and machinery around so has taken getting used to. However, once everything shuts down at 4.30pm and we go back up to our camp it is so lovely and quiet and calm and at night we are surrounded by cricket and cicada sounds and pookie’s (bush-babies’) calls . We have a spectacular view from there and we sit outside cooling down with beers until it’s dark, then cook on our fire at night and sit round the fire for ages talking and feeling very lucky!!




I have attached some pics of our camp and Damien’s “office” and the quarry and will send some more dusty news after I have been to Nyatana. In the meantime will be keeping my eyes out for a meerkat...




Wednesday, 19 August 2009

Preparing for the adventure

47 MORE SLEEPS TO GO!

I am on the verge of a life-changing experience. Lucky? Immensely. Terrified?? 100 percent!!!

I (I should say 'we'... will explain later...) have finally taken the decision to go home. Having spent 7 years in the rat-race that is London and trying to force my little Zimbabwean mind to accept that 'home' may never be a realistic possibility other than for those snatched weeks of holiday every year, times have finally changed and the perfect opportunity has just risen it's pretty head.

A switch has flicked in my brain now and I am already sitting on the edge of the river in spirit, listening to thunderstorms, watching fireflies. (This does make concentrating on Risk Management principles and Compliance culture slightly more of a challenge than usual, you can understand...) I don't think I have looked forward to something so much since I was a child!

What a privileged position to be in.

Now, back to the 'we'... The WE part is that my very British fiance is joining me... (This is the man who sees geckos as man-eating dragons and wall-spiders as vicious killers. Oh dear...) This will be an adventure for him to say the least! The fact that he is yet to learn to drive, change a tyre, work a GPS, shoot a gun or wrestle crocodiles makes this coming year a drama in the making... And boy is he looking forward to it! He is an 'African-to-be', an African in training... I am looking forward to watching him succumb to our wilderness like we all have...

I set up this blog (..why is 'blog' such a nasty word?! Always makes me think of something toiletish...) to track our progress over the next year as it is going to be such a change from London living and also because I am hoping it will encourage other people to take the plunge and do something wild. (Do it!) I think it will also help keep me sane as we will be spending a lot of time in a very remote part of this earth and you can start to forget that the rest of the world exists! My main focus will be our progress in setting up home in the bush and getting the project up and running and successful. Africa being Africa, we are likely to have more than our fair share of break-downs, near misses with wild animals, language issues etc. I'm hoping to provide some entertainment for your troubles...

We will be leaving London on the 6th of October and spending a few days with friends and family in Joburg before flying onto Harare where our family home is, which will be our weekend base while we are getting things up and running. The project will be based in Nyatana which is in the north-east near the Mozambican border, and right on the edge of a stunning stretch of the Mazowe River.

A bit about the project:

- The project focuses on reforestation and avoided deforestation on a 60,000 hectare piece of land.

- 6 local villages will be involved who will directly benefit from this project in a number of ways (income from jobs like planting and anti-poaching patrols, better farming methods, income from the sale of carbon credits, help with problem animal control such as rogue elephants, better access to 'clean' firewood for cooking and reeds for weaving, cleaner water, local business initiatives etc...)

- Main income generators for us will be from the sale of carbon credits (to Europe etc.) from the forests involved and income from hunts generated from the hunting of animals on the cull list or problem animal control (POC) list. (Local communities also get all the meat from these hunts which can sustain them for months at a time in some cases.)

- To do this we aim to plant 1 million indigenous trees a year, and have put in place a number closely monitored initiatives to protect these forests and the wildlife within them, and more importantly the special people who live in the area.


Exciting stuff... no???!

The slight catch (but the BEAUTY of it all!) is that we are moving into a bare, concrete shell of a building with no electricity and no running water or phone signal of any sort, 3 hours from the nearest town! Yikes!

CONS:

- No phone, no internet, no TV, no fridge, no stove, no hot water, no lighting... ET CETERA!

PROS:

- Lovely warm nights outside (watching fireflies!), dinner by candle-light, braais every night (BBQs to those who don't know what 'braai's are...), river swimming, glorious hot days, no TV, no phone, night sounds, fireside philosophy - oh it's ENDLESS!

What a lucky little fish I am!

There will be a lot of work to do as we aim to get all up to scratch and connected so we can run the place like an office as well as a home. Boreholes need to be dug, satellite dishes arranged, a generator got, internet set up etc.... and lots of lovely work on the house to make it more homely and cosy for us (hot shower would be nice, and a lick of paint... a bed...). We are also going to be designing and building a few lodges as accommodation for potential hunts that are arranged and hopefully for some future eco-tourism as the spot is truly touched by the gods... achingly beautiful.

Now we need to just get through these last 6 weeks of work and sort out all the boring stuff us humans have to do like packing, shipping, tickets and all that nonsense.

Well that is the intro folks, 47 sleeps to go... and counting!